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How to achieve a professional finish to an artificial lawn landscape installation.
Shopping List
Tools
Turf Cutter
Compactor Plate
Blower
Stiff Brush (or motorised)
Wheelbarrow
Cutting Blade
Sand Hopper
Materials
TigerTurf Landscape Artificial Grass
Weed Memrane
Edging
Joint Glue & Tape
Nails
MOT Type 1 Stone
6mm Granite to Dust Stone
Sharp Sand
Step One
TigerTurf’s landscape artificial grass range must be fitted into an edging (patio flag, block paving, timber) to prevent the base material from breaking away under foot. If there isn’t a hard edge available use steel edging, when installing the edging apply a liberal amount of post mix into a beveled channel on the inner edge, this will help eliminate weeds at the perimeter and stabilises the edging system.
Step Two
Cover the area with type 1 (or MOT) stone, on average a 1 tonne bag will cover an area of 10-12m2. Blind off the area with 30-40mm of 6mm granite to dust stone. This provides a firm and stable base allowing good drainage.
Crown the base, this allows for natural settlement, good aesthetics and ensure the grass dives into the edging system, this will make it look natural and in the event of the base settling it will not create a ‘crater effect’.
Step Three
Apply the weed membrane directly on top of the granite dust. Nail in position using 4” galvanised nails to stop this from blowing and moving.
We do not recommend fine granite going directly on to geotextile.
Step Four
The artificial grass must be laid in the same direction if using more than one section. Our landscape products are sold in 4m and 2m widths, for this reason you will need to factor in potential wastage. For the optimum and most natural finish, run the product towards the property (so you are looking into the pile).
Step Five
When jointing the artificial grass, it should run parallel. When you get your roll of grass it may have the salvage piece on one or both sides of the grass, this is left on only for protection in transit, so it needs to be removed. Using a sharp stanley knife cut the salvage strip off with the first 3 stitches as this will give a clean joint, making sure that you only cut the backing with the tip of the blade. You can’t joint onto a salvage piece you must use the landscape jointing tape and adhesive.
Once you have prepared your joint by cutting back the 3 stitches, place the jointing tape, shiny side down, directly under the two pieces that form the joint. Nail the jointing tape in position to stop it rolling back up or blowing in the wind.
Glue a line of adhesive 10mm each side of the join. Fold the artificial turf onto the adhesive making sure not to get any glue onto the yarn – in the event of you getting any glue onto the grass remove immediately with white spirit. Make sure to leave a small gap of 2-3mm between the sections of grass to get the best join.
Nail the joint every 700mm using 4” galvanized nails as this will hold it in position until the glue sets – only tap the nails in half way, these are temporary to ensure that the join isn’t pulled apart during the rest of the install.
Step Six
Trim the grass in at the perimeters using a sharp stanley knife. Where possible apply a bead of adhesive onto the inner edge of the perimeter to secure. Alternatively nail around the perimeter using 4” galvanized nails.
Step Seven
Sand-infilling is an important step in the fitting process and adds to the authentic look of the finished lawn.
Using a stiff broom (or motorised brush), brush the grass up against the pile. Split a bag of kiln dry sand (25kg) and disperse the sand evenly over the artificial grass (1 bag will cover an area of 4m2). If you have access to a sand hopper, use this for ease and to help spread the sand evenly.
Brush the sand into the grass – you can also use a garden blower as this will help to push the sand into the thatch of the grass. If you feel lumps under foot, use the garden blower to rectify.
It is very important to only apply the kiln dry sand in dry weather.
At the end of the install always remove any nails used during joining seams.